Ford of Glory

The last night was hard. In the full sense of the word, because my insulation mattress was broken. As flat as a flat tyre. "Gomma a terra", as the Italians say.

Thankfully, Gamin's former owners were able to help me out. They came by car and brought me their mattress. How fortunate!

There had been heavy rain at night. I had to pack a soaking wet tent.

Today' stage of the journey was not easy to handle. At first, there came enchanted forest paths between oak trees covered in moss. The air was hot and full of scents. The path led down into a ravine, as deep as the subconciousness of the world.

The "bridge" was nothing but an old tree trunk and a rope as a handrail.

There was no other way. We had to go through the ford. Our first real obstacle.
For a split second I wanted to make a telephone call in order to complain or to call for help ... But it was clear: we were alone in this deep ravine and had to tackle it.
I took a couple of steps into the water. Gamin stood at the river bank and refused to move, as it was expected. I stood in the water, called and pulled on the lead. This went on for a while.
Suddenly I saw him gathering his courage. He jumped once, twice, three galloping steps, and we were on the other side.

I praised him extensively, and we shared an apple. We had made it! There is hardly anything more beautiful than having an animal as an accomplice. Slowly we are becoming a team.

The path went steeply uphill again. We climbed out of the ravine and reached a mountainside with blossoming trees and vast meadows.

Below in the next valley we could see the Rhône, Arras and further behind more mountains, the Vercors in the shadows. Somewhere behind this impressive horizon lies Apulia.

The descent to Arras meant that we had to take dangerously steep paths, often not wider than 20 centimetres. I concentrated on the cactuses and the stones in the sand in order to not look down into the deep abyss.
Gamin managed everything well.
We crossed the Arras dam. One more river was behind us.
We became very tired.

Finally we found a small place at the river bank of the Rhône, which we had been shown by the folks from a motorcycle garage. And this is where the tent is now pitched. We can hear the boats on the river.

This is the real bohemian life, walking between worlds. A great day with wonderful sceneries is coming to an end.

The final rehearsal

Today was my "dress rehearsal" with Gamin: 18 kilometres in the mountains around Roiffieux.

At first, Gamin was very afraid of my panniers. We had to take time to get him used to them. Then we set out. And he followed me, willingly and with firm steps.

Often there were strong gusts of wind. Especially on the mountain. But what a landscape!

The Vosgean spring is only just beginning, but here in the Ardèche there is a frenzy of blossoms and flowers.

I am getting fed up with the training tours, although today's hike was of course very important. Nevertheless I am really looking forward to tomorrow, when it will begin in earnest!

No song is better suited for this day than this one:



Okay, it is not quite May yet, but everything else fits!

Total Reboot

For many months I have been training with Heidi.
We have learned and achieved a lot together. Then her problems began. First gently, then they became increasingly noticable: The unexplainable weight loss, the increasing nervousness.

Almost two months before the planned start of the journey, it was time to take stock and to ask myself: can I take the responsibility for going on the pilgrimage with Heidi?
I did many calculations, weighing the food rations we need and the possible maximum weight. I checked the route again and again, assessing whether a main road might be circumvented or a railway crossing avoided. I imagined us walking through the cities of Biel and Locarno, and through the endless industrial areas of Milan.
And finally through the semi-desert of Basilicates, where there will be only heat, sand and rock, but hardly any food.
It can not be justified.
And that means: either the project is dead now, or I need another pack animal.

It all happened incredibly fast. I found an advertisement  «trained trekking donkey, has already been on the Way of St. James and other long-term trails». 

His name is «Gamin» and he lives in Roiffieux, Département Ardèche, in the region Rhône Alpes.    

TGV, the railway company, brought me there quickly, and yesterday I already was on a long tour with Gamin and his owners, through the Mediterranean pine forests in the rocky hills west of the village.

I continuously compared him with Heidi  - «Heidi would react like this, would do that». Meanwhile, a well-behaved Gamin trotted behind me most of the time.

The contact with the couple who owned Gamin - both of them experienced trekkers with pack animals - was incredibly important for me. Their kindheartedness and their many valuable tips motivated me and gave me new courage. They were enthusiastic about my project.

In the evening, the sales contract was signed. Gamin is mine now.

But it doesn't make sense to pay for an expensive transport in order to bring Gamin to me in the Vosges region. I will therefore alter the route and set out from Roiffieux.

The whole Swiss part of the route will be omitted. Instead we will cross the Vercors mountains, the Maritime Alps, and enter Italy from the west. The Milan Agglomeration will also be dropped. Behind Genova I will meet my old, original route again.

This is not easy for me. I have been looking forward very much to the Swiss legs of the journey: the Gotthard pass, the Entlebuch, the Maggia valley ...

But these places are not "the" pilgrimage. The pilgrimage is Aldo Moro, Torrita Tiberina, Maglie ... and this route will remain.

I will miss the specialness of departing from my own door in order to walk to the door of the house where Aldo was born in Maglie.

On April 15th, I will take the train to Roiffieux, where I will make the last preparations with Gamin's owners, including a test tour with the full luggage on the 16th.

And on April 17th, I will definitely set out.

The route via the south of France is much shorter, but there are more mountains. Nevertheless, it might happen that I arrive a whole month early ... perhaps really in September instead of October. Then I'd be in Maglie for Aldo's birthday.

During my absence, Heidi will graze on the pastures of Maupotel. I will bring her there soon. A temporary farewell, which is also difficult for me.

I am still struggling to come to terms with these great changes. Although I know that they were the right thing to do.